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Travelers Tales-Turkey

Edited by James Villers, Jr., with contributions from Stephen Kinzer, Tim Cahill, Robert D. Kaplan, Richard Halliburton, and more

2002, 284 pages

Reviewed by Christopher Deliso

For those who may not know of it, Traveler’s Tales is a San Francisco-based publishing house that has earned a reputation for producing high-quality, well-designed books that bring together stories from leading travel writers, presenting a kaleidoscope of outlooks on a specific place or topic. Past editions have focused on places like Mexico, Japan, Tuscany and Tibet, and themes such as romance, food and spiritual travel.

Traveler’s Tales’ 2002 collection of stories from Turkey contains 31 full-length stories, as well as numerous factual side details, excerpts from literature on Turkey, and anecdotes from the road. It covers grand adventures, like Richard Halliburton’s epic swim across the Bosporus and Tim Cahill’s mountain search for the legendary Caspian tiger, as well as sublime experiences like Mary Lee Settle’s visit to the tunneled moonscape of Cappadocia and Laurence Mitchell’s journey with religious pilgrims to the southern city of Urfa, birthplace of Abraham.The book also provides sensible, sometimes sensual information on such customs as smoking the narghile (water pipe) and sipping Turkish tea. Vivid descriptions of the country are encountered frequently, with some of the best being James Villers’ portrait of the vibrant Istiklal Caddesi shopping street in Istanbul and Nicholas Shrady’s trip to the tomb of the mystic poet Rumi in Konya.

Some historical context is provided in Robert D. Kaplan’s “Who are the Turks?” which is, however, unfortunately pervaded by the unpleasant odor of neoconservatism. The most important stories in the book, perhaps, are those that show prospective travelers how and where to have extraordinary experiences. In this category are Steven Kinzer’s “Turkish Wrestlemania,” which describes the ancient tradition that sees strapping young men lubed up with oil and grunting in the dirt, as well as Laurie Udesky’s “Clash of the Camels,” which details the same sort of ritual exertion, waged by real live dromedaries, without the oil.

Without a doubt, the best story in the collection is Tim Cahill’s “Anyone seen a tiger around here?” This rollicking tale describes a real quest- the search for the perhaps extinct Caspian tiger, told with great humor and aplomb by the king of improbable outdoor adventures. Along with Cahill’s retelling of memorable encounters with Turkish military officials, we also learn a fair bit about the Kurds, Armenian churches, and the anatomy of myths as passed down in villages everywhere. The story proves irresistible to the very end, where the discovery- almost- of the fabled beast leaves the author intimating a return trip sometime in the future. This clever twist leaves the reader impatient for the sequel.

If Traveler’s Tales-Turkey has a flaw, it would be the rather simplistic way that some writers have of describing rather simple experiences, as with Laura Billings’ “How to buy a Turkish rug.” Another stereotypical “Turkish experience” that could perhaps have been left out is Ralf Potts’ “Turkish Knockout,” detailing the oft-told phenomena of tourists losing their valuables after being befriended and drugged by seemingly well-meaning locals.

And, perhaps, it is just too “American” of a book. The book is weighted towards authors who, through no fault of their own, come equipped with certain presumptions and ways of thinking that are notably American- and it shows. Solipsism, selfishness and a patronizing bemusement are just some of the unsavory qualities present that reflect the mindset of the culture observing, and not that of the society under scrutiny. At worst, this lack of variety can make the going a bit tedious. On the other hand, it probably has helped sales in the primary target market, America: the average reader can relate.

In any case, it is clear that this is a book more for Turkey neophytes than seasoned travelers. Nevertheless, it is an entertaining and in places inspirational read, and even those who have been to Turkey many times are sure to learn something new from the writers’ collective wealth of experience. It can also serve as a warm companion for “homesick” travelers when they’re far from Turkey.

A problem with the series in general, present here, is a general unevenness that comes when stories from widely varying types of publications are patched together. Take, for example, the book’s two aquatic adventures. Richard Halliburton’s swim across the Bosporus derives from his 1927 book The Glorious Adventure, whereas John Flinn’s “Blue Voyage” is culled from a modern-day newspaper travel section. The juxtaposition here of a grand story told with literary pomp and a transient tale telling the reader about the costs of hiring a yacht doesn’t really work. The whole book is affected by a similarly irregular feel, making it more of a work to be dipped into occasionally than something to be read cover to cover.

Nevertheless, the book is recommended- and not only because it also contains a snippet by the present reviewer. Traveler’s Tales-Turkey provides a kaleidoscopic introduction for would-be travelers and a loving reminiscence for veterans, to a country that is always unique, inscrutable, and challenging its visitors to embrace its own innate contradictions.

Buy Traveler’s Tales- Turkey Now!

Planning to visit Turkey? You’ll need Lonely Planet’s guide to Turkey and Tom Brosnahan’s guide to Istanbul.

Some books of interest for fans of Turkey include Philip Mansell’s Constantinople, city of the world’s desires and Robert Bigelow’s biography of legendary Ottoman sultan Suleiman the Magnificent.

Other works from some of the authors appearing in Travelers Tales-Turkey include Tim Cahill’s Jaguars Ripped My Flesh, Stephen Kinzer’s Crescent and Star: Turkey Between Two Worlds, and Robert D. Kaplan’s controversial Balkan Ghosts.